Food & drink
Croatia has over 130 native grape varieties. Most tourists encounter two. Here are the ones worth knowing by island.
Plavac Mali is the main red grape of Dalmatia — grown across the coast but at its best on the steep south-facing slopes of Hvar and Pelješac. Full-bodied, high tannin, needs food.
Bogdanuša is a white variety almost exclusive to Hvar — lighter, mineral, worth trying if you see it.
Pošip is one of Croatia's best white wines. Grown across Korčula, full-bodied, not especially aromatic, excellent with fish.
Grk is rarer — grown only in the village of Lumbarda on Korčula's eastern tip. The name means 'Greek' — it has been grown there since antiquity. Dry, mineral, worth finding.
Vugava is a white variety grown almost nowhere else. Produced in small quantities on Vis. If you are on the island, ask for it.
Dingač and Postup are two of Croatia's most famous wine appellations — both Plavac Mali, grown on steep rocky slopes above the sea on the Pelješac peninsula, accessible by boat from Korčula. The wines from here are among the best reds in Croatia.
At a good konoba, ask for domaće vino (house wine). It will usually be local, unbottled, and significantly cheaper than the wine list. The quality is variable but often better than expected.
Every konoba has rakija — fruit brandy, usually homemade, served before or after dinner. Loza is grape-based, travarica is herb-infused, medovina is honey-based. Accept it when offered. Do not expect it to be subtle.
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