Island guide
Hvar
Glamorous and genuinely beautiful. Also the most visited island in Croatia, and it shows in August. Here's what it's actually like, and when to go.
Getting there — two ports, not one
This is the most important thing to understand about Hvar before you arrive. The island has two ferry ports and they are not interchangeable:
Stari Grad is on the north coast, about 20km from Hvar town. The car ferry drops you there. If you don't have a car, the Krilo catamaran puts you directly in Hvar town harbour, which is where you want to be. Take the catamaran if you can.
What August is actually like
The harbour in Hvar town in August looks like a superyacht dealership. The main square is crowded from 10am. Restaurants are full. The beaches closest to town are shoulder-to-shoulder. None of this is a secret, but it bears saying plainly.
It is still beautiful. The light in the evening is still extraordinary. The lavender fields are there year-round. If you go in August, go knowing what to expect, stay a little outside of town, and leave early in the morning to get to the good beaches.
Best months: May, June, and September. The island in early June — warm enough to swim, empty enough to move — is one of the better things available to a person with a ferry ticket and a few days free.
Beaches
The best beaches on Hvar are not the ones near town:
- Dubovica — a sheltered pebble cove 8km east of Hvar town, framed by an old stone farmhouse. 30 minutes by road, or take a boat.
- Pakleni Islands — a string of islets accessible by water taxi from the harbour. Pine-shaded pebble beaches, clear water, several good restaurants. Worth the 15 minutes.
- Malo Grablje — below an abandoned hilltop village. 45 minutes' walk from Milna. Most people don't bother. It shows.
Stari Grad vs Hvar town
Stari Grad is quieter, older, and has a UNESCO-listed agricultural plain that's been farmed the same way since the ancient Greeks. If you've done Hvar town before, Stari Grad is worth a different trip. Good restaurants, no yachts, half the price.
Practical notes
Car spaces on the ferry fill up fast in peak season — book ahead or arrive at the port 90+ minutes early. Walk-on passengers almost never miss a sailing. Scooter rental in Hvar town makes the island significantly more accessible than a car for a short visit.
Exact departure times, all departures, live updates at the port.
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